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来源:健康网    发布时间:2019年07月16日 10:16:57    编辑:admin         

You can credit Apple Pay with dramatically raising the visibility of mobile payments technology over the past four months. Even the U.S. government now accepts it, for admission to national parks and such.过去四个月里,移动付技术获得的关注度显著提升,这笔功劳很大程度要记在苹果公司的Apple Pay上。就连美国政府现在也接受了它,允许人们用它购买国家公园的门票什么的。Google isn’t just watching: it just signed some formidable partners to build its own share more quickly. ATamp;T, T-Mobile and Verizon will all preload Google’s app on certain mobile handsets. They’ve also decided to let Google take control of Softcard, the alliance they created to control their mobile payment destiny.谷歌不仅仅是在观望:该公司刚刚和几个强大的合作伙伴签约,企图迅速构筑自己的市场份额。ATamp;T、T-Mobile和Verizon等运营商都将在特定机型上预装谷歌的付应用。他们还决定让谷歌控制他们为掌控移动付命运而创建的Softcard联盟。Plus, you shouldn’t discount the potential influence of the world’s biggest smartphone maker, Samsung. Last week, it bought LoopPay, a technology that doesn’t require massive upgrades of point-of-sale technology.另外,我们也不应忽视全球最大手机制造商三星公司的潜在影响力。就在上周,三星刚刚收购了LoopPay公司,后者的技术并不需要POS机技术的重大升级。Nor should you overlook PayPal, which processedapproximately billion in mobile payments during 2014. That was 20% of its total.PayPal也不容忽视。2014年,PayPal通过移动付处理了将近460亿美元的交易额,占其总交易额的20%。Why all this fuss? The answer lies in the success of the Starbuck mobile app, which supports at least 7 million mobile transactions per week.各大公司为何纷纷涌向移动付?与星巴克移动应用的成功有关,该应用每周至少要处理700万次移动交易。An impressive digital payment vehicle? Certainly. But that understates the app’s powerful influence as a marketing tool. It’s aly used liberally to distribute third-party software, digital music, and promotional offers. A valuable marketing channel that is mostly underexploited today.移动付是一个优秀的数字付载体吗?当然。但这种说法低估了它作为一种营销工具的强大影响力。它已经被广泛用于推广第三方软件、数字音乐和促销活动。这是一个极具价值,但目前还没有得到充分开发的营销渠道。“Access to loyalty rewards from brands is the most wanted features from consumers, and it’s the one least integrated in mobile payments today,” notes Forrester Research analyst Thomas Husson, in a recent blog about this topic.福雷斯特研究公司分析师托马斯o哈森最近在一篇讨论这个话题的客中写道:“获得各大品牌的忠诚度奖励,是消费者最想要的功能,它也是这些移动付最大的缺陷之一。”Indeed, approximately 57% of U.S. adult smartphone users want access to loyalty programs and rewards through mobile wallets, according to his firm’s ongoing Consumer Technographics surveys.实际上,根据福雷斯特公司正在进行的消费科技调查,大约57%的美国成年人智能手机用户想通过智能钱包参加某个品牌的忠诚度奖励计划。Three other tidbits to consider:另外还有三点需要注意:o Don’t forget price comparison information. It was only slightly behind loyalty programs as a desired feature for mobile wallets.o 不要忘了价格比较功能。在消费者看来,比价信息的重要性只是略低于忠诚度计划,也是消费者非常需要的移动钱包功能之一。o Consumers may be slow to trust. They’re more likely to consider mobile wallets from banks and credit card processors than from technology companies or retailers. PayPal stands out as an exception.o 要让消费者信任移动钱包可能需要比较长的时间。他们可能更容易相信或信用卡处理商推出的移动钱包软件,而不是科技公司或零售企业提供的移动付功能。PayPal是个例外。o Dramatic three-year increase anticipated. According to Forrester’s report in early February, just 3% of consumers have used a mobile wallet in the past three months. By 2018, however, adoption should reach 15-20% of smartphone users. That’s an impressive upside.o 在未来三年内,移动钱包有望实现快速增长。根据福雷斯特公司二月初发布的报告,在过去三个月里,只有3%的消费者使用了移动钱包功能。不过到2018年,移动钱包的使用率将达到全部智能手机用户的15%到20%。这种增长速度将是非常惊人的。 /201503/362737。

Lacquerware漆器Chinese ancestors began to make lacquerware about 7,000 years ago.中国人早在7000年前就开始制作漆器。In 1978, red lacquer bowls and tubes of the Hemudu Cutture were found in Yuyao, Zhejiang Province. According to scientific analysis, the coatings are natural lacquers.1978年在距今7000年前的浙江余姚河姆渡文化遗址中发现了朱漆碗和朱漆筒,经过科学分析,其涂料为天然漆。After the Xia Dynasty, the variety of lacquerware increased, and the craft flou-rished for five centuries starting in the Warring States Period from 475 B. C.to 221 B. C.The scale of lacquerware production had aly become very large in the Warring States Period. Lacquerware was one of the main economic resources of the time, and there were specific offcials in charge of its production.夏代之后,漆器品种渐多,在战国时期,漆器业独领风骚,形成长达5个世纪的空前繁荣。战国时漆器生产规模已经很大,被国家列入重要的经济收入来源,并设专人管理。According to historical records, the ancient Chinese sage of Zhuang Zi used to be an officer in charge of lacquerware production.Lacquerware was very expen-sive. The production process was verlt complicated, necessitating a strong work force and long working hours. It came in many varied forms and was widely used for furniture, utensils, stationan,r, art works, musical instruments, funeral goods and weapons. The nobles moved their attention from bronzeware to lacquerware because the latter was bright, light, easy to clean, had heat insulation and corro-sion resistant qualities and could be inlaid and painted with many colors.据记载,庄子年轻时曾经做过管理漆业的小官。漆器生产工序复杂,耗工耗时,漆器品种又特别繁多,不仅用于装饰家具、器皿、文具和艺术品,而且还应用于乐器、丧葬用具、兵器等。这时的漆器很昂贵,新兴的诸侯不再热衷于青铜器,而把兴趣转向光亮、洁净、易洗、体轻、隔热、耐腐、嵌饰绘五光十色的漆器。Lacquerware was, however, usually coated blcrck and decorated with red de-signs or coated red and decorated with black designs. About 220 lacquerware ob-jects were unearthed in Zeng Houyi’s Tomb in Hubei Province. They are the earliestand most superb lacquerware of the Chu Kingdom of the Warring States Period.Lacquerware items, including clothing storage boxes, which were unearthed in the tomb are richly varied, of large size and simple style; they reflect the charm of the culture of the Chu Kingdom.The designs on some of the boxes make them very valuable. In the center of one is a zhuan calligraphy character, meaning a star,surrounded by the names, also in zhuan characters, of the phases of the moon in a arcle.On the lwo ends are designs of a blue dragon and a white tiger.This box is a rare relic of great value for research into anaent Chinese astronomy as it is the earliest written record of the moon phases yet found in China.漆器一般髹朱饰黑,或髹黑饰朱,以优美的图案在器物表面构成一个绮丽的色世界。在湖北曾侯乙墓出土的漆器有220多件。这些漆器是楚墓中年代最早也是最为精的,而且品类全,器型大,风格古朴,这些精美的漆器体现了楚文化的神韵。其中有几件衣箱盖上所绘的图案非常有价值。一个箱盖的中心有一个篆文“斗”字,用粗笔写成。围绕“斗”字,是一圈二十八宿的古代名称,也是篆文,字迹清晰。箱盖两端绘有首尾对置的青龙、白虎的图像。这是研究我国古代天文学史的一件珍贵文物。Some lacquerware was painted with fairy tales.For example, the ancient Chi-nese tale ofHou Yi Shootin,g the Sun,WOS painted on a black coated and red design clothing box.Mushroom-shaped and colored clouds and lwo twisting double head-ed snakes with human faces form the background.On the lwo sides are two trees,the tall one with ii branches and the short one with nine.On the tip of each branch is a circle radiating brilliant light, symbolizing the sun. Belween the two trees, a man shoots an arrow at a bird on the tall tree. The story demonstrates mankind’s successful battle against nature.一些漆器上绘有一些有趣的神话故事。在一件刻有紫锦纹衣箱的箱盖上,绘有“后羿射日”的故事,黑地朱纹,有蘑菇状的云和两条双头人面蛇互相缠绕,两侧有一高一低的树,高树上有1 1个枝权,矮树有9个枝权,每个枝权梢头都绘有一个放射光芒的圆圈,两树之间一人正用箭射下高树上的一只鸟。原来这是“后羿射日”的故事,是人与自进行斗争,以人最后胜利告终的美丽神话。Han Dynasty lacquerware mainly used black and red colors.In the painted de-sign of one piece, there are 90 immortals, and birds and beasts with different pos-tures and expressions.The immortals are dancing with their long sleeves waving in the air, sitting quietly with their chins in their hands, or shooting arrows with con-centrcrted expressions. The animals being hunted are tuming their heads in panic and running swiftly away. Beautiful pattems of dragons, phoenixes, leaves,grass, cloud and various other things were drawn on the lacquerware objects to add to their elegance. Lacquerware reached its heyday in the Han Dynasty and more lacquerware products emerged. These included boxes, plates, earrings,bowls, baskets, trunks, rulers, kettles, chessboards and stools. Meanwhile,many new craffing techniques and decorative methods were also developed.汉代漆器也是以黑红为主色。有一幅画面上出现90个形态各异、生动活泼的仙人和鸟兽。仙人之中,有的挥动着长袖翩翩起舞,有的托腮静坐,若有所思,有的拉弓射箭,千钧一发,猎物惊恐回首,匆忙飞奔。龙纹和风纹都是装饰性的,并加以陶索纹、菱格纹、花瓣纹、草叶纹、云纹等。造型优美,图案华丽。汉代是漆器的鼎盛时期。漆器的品种又增加了盒、盘、耳环、碟、碗、筐、箱、尺、唾壶、棋盘、凳子。同时,还开创了多种新的工艺技法和装饰手法。The patterns on the lacquerware are simple lines or complicated pictures, de-pending on the items different functions. The contrast belween the black and red colors creates a speaal artistic effect. The black and red pictures on the lacquer-ware present a mysterious and ever-changing fairy world inhabited by human be-ings and immortals.漆器图案根据不同的器物,以粗率简练的线条或繁褥复杂的构图表现,增强人或动物的动感与为度。黑红互置的色产生光亮、优美的特殊效果。在红与黑交织的画面上,形成富有音乐感的瑰丽多的艺术风格,展现了一个人神共在,奇伟谲诡、流动飞扬、变幻神奇的神话般的世界。 /201512/410742。

In January, British actor Eddie Redmayne made headlines around the world as he became the latest in a growing band of smartphone refuseniks.今年1月,英国演员埃迪雷德梅因(Eddie Redmayne)成为全球头条新闻,因为他加入了人数越来越多的智能手机拒绝者的行列。“It was a reaction against being glued permanently to my iPhone during waking hours,” he explained, turning instead to an old-fashioned “dumb phone” handset that could only make and take calls.他解释说:“这是对于在清醒时刻与我的iPhone永远粘在一起的反应。”他转而使用只能接打电话的老式“傻瓜手机”。He is not alone. There is a small but busy market for phones that are simple and cheap at a time when smartphones are becoming ever more complex and expensive.他并非唯一这么做的人。在智能手机变得越来越复杂和昂贵之际,简单而廉价的手机拥有一个规模不大但颇为忙碌的市场。Feature phones — handsets with some basic functions such as playing music and accessing the internet — are gradually being replaced by low cost smartphones, according to Francisco Jeronimo, research director for European mobile devices at IDC, the research group. But there is still a significant demand for older-style phones.研究机构IDC的欧洲移动设备研究总监弗朗西斯科瀠坧尼莫(Francisco Jeronimo)表示,功能手机(具备一些基本功能的手机,例如播放音乐和上网)正逐渐被低价智能手机取代。但更老式的手机仍有可观需求。Strategy Analytics, a research group, estimates that 44m basic phones were sold in 2015, accounting for 2 per cent of the global market.研究机构Strategy Analytics估计,2015年基础手机销量为4400万部,占全球手机市场的2%。Some phonemakers, such as Sony and LG, have aly turned their back on the market. But others like Microsoft and Samsung are still producing devices every year aimed at the feature market.一些手机制造商(例如索尼(Sony)和LG)已放弃这块市场。但微软(Microsoft)和三星(Samsung)等其他厂商仍年年推出瞄准功能手机市场的设备。Many smartphone users bemoan having to buy devices that are easily broken, require daily recharging and which will be superseded by a new, better version within a year. Even basic smartphones offer computing power that not many people need.很多智能手机用户抱怨称,他们不得不购买很容易被摔坏、需要每天充电,以及不到一年就被新的更高版本取代的手机。就连入门型号的智能手机也提供并非很多人需要的计算能力。Some users buy phones with limited or no internet connections in a conscious attempt to decouple from the modern digital world. Light Phone founder Joe Hollier falls into this camp. The 25-year-old former skater has developed a credit card-sized phone without a data connection and no extra functions other than to make calls. He describes a feeling of huge relief when the ability to check emails or status updates is removed.一些用户为了有意识地试图与现代数字世界隔绝,而购买上网功能有限或者没有上网功能的手机。Light Phone创始人乔攠利耶(Joe Hollier)就是其中的一员。这位25岁的前滑板运动员开发了一款信用卡大小的手机,除接打电话外,没有数据连接或其他额外功能。他形容,移除查看邮件或更新状态功能带来一种巨大的放松感觉。Analysts say that there is a growing number of “second phoneys” who use an expensive smartphone or “phablet” during the day, but turn to cheaper, pocket-sized devices when they go out in the evening.分析师们表示,越来越多的人使用两部手机:白天使用昂贵智能手机或平板手机,晚上外出时则换成较为廉价的袖珍手机。The Light Phone functions as a compnion device to a smartphone but Mr Hollier hopes it will also encourage people to unplug from the modern internet world.Light Phone就像是智能手机的伴侣,但奥利耶希望它还会鼓励人们时不时暂别现代互联网世界。There are also practical reasons why some are turning their backs on smartphones. The short battery life of devices is a source of constant complaint and many travellers are still attracted to the reliability and long battery life of older phones.一些人放弃智能手机也有实际的原因。手机电池续航时间短是人们抱怨连连的一个原因,同时很多旅行者仍喜欢老式手机的可靠性和超长待机时间。This market is still being served by Microsoft, which now owns the Nokia brand. The US group last year launched the Nokia 215, for example, a simple, robust device that has a standby battery life of 29 days. The Nokia 515 has a massive 38 days standby time.微软仍在务于这块市场,该公司现在拥有诺基亚(Nokia)品牌。去年,微软推出诺基亚215,这是一款简单而坚固的手机,电池待机时间达到29天。诺基亚515的电池待机时间则长达38天。The phone has a simple layer of apps and basic data connectivity, but the main attraction is the price tag. As Microsoft boasts: “Exceptional battery life and impressive durability are standard features. When you own a Nokia, you own a phone that’s built to last.”这款手机的应用软件简单,仅具备基本的数据连接,但主要吸引力在于其30美元的价格。正如微软所夸耀的那样:“出色的电池待机时间以及令人印象深刻的耐用性是标准配备。如果你有一部诺基亚,你就拥有了一部可以天长地久的手机。”Dumb phones have more specific uses, however, for example being given to children for calling home. They are simple, robust and cheap if lost.然而,非智能手机还具备一些比较特定的用途,例如,给孩子用来打电话给家里。它们简单、结实,如果丢失也不贵。Likewise, there are simple phones for the elderly, such as those made by Doro, which prioritise large buttons and the amplification of volume rather than how quickly they can access the internet.同样,还有一些专为老年人设计的简单手机,例如Doro生产的手机,该公司的手机优先考虑大按键和音量放大,而不是接入互联网的速度有多快。Mr Jeronimo says that such products are becoming a niche opportunity for companies. Doro has grown to become the third-largest feature phonemaker in western Europe after Microsoft and Samsung, he adds.IDC的杰罗尼莫表示,这类产品正成为一些公司占据一席之地的机遇。他补充称,Doro已成长为西欧第三大功能手机制造商,仅次于微软和三星。Feature phones are also more popular in developing markets because of the combination of low prices and long battery life.此外,由于价格低和电池待机时间长,功能手机在发展中国家更受欢迎。“Using a smartphone in some countries in Africa, for instance, is not an option for many users, as it would require to charge it on a daily basis,” says Mr Jeronimo.杰罗尼莫表示:“例如,在非洲一些国家,对很多用户来说,使用智能手机并非可行选择,因为它需要每天充电。”“On the other hand using a smartphone means little for users who cannot connect to a 3G network, either because they are not available or because the connectivity is extremely expensive.”“另一方面,使用智能手机对那些无法接入3G网络的用户而言几乎无用,这要么是因为3G网络不可用,要么是接入价格极其高昂。”And, for those that find even basic phones are too much, there is a solution: the NoPhone Zero. It claims to be the least advanced phone ever created, has no buttons or components and is just a plastic rectangle. It is a joke, but one that says much about our modern anxiety about technology.对于那些认为连基础手机都显过分的人而言,这里有一个解决方案:5美元的NoPhone Zero(见右上图)。这款手机自称是目前最低级的手机,它没有按键和零部件,只是一块长方形塑料。它是个搞笑产品,但它在很大程度上揭示了现代社会的科技焦虑。 /201602/428519。

The trick to successful fashion retail is exclusivity. Traditionally, large stores sought to entice shoppers by securing limited-edition colourways and shapes from their designers’ collections. Browse the websites of Net-A-Porter or Bergdorf Goodman and you’ll find countless mainline products proudly branded “Exclusively Ours!” But delivering something novel has become increasingly challenging in the current retail environment. With fashion being presented on the catwalk months before the clothes go on sale, everything is seen online or in print months before it arrives in store. By the time products drop, shoppers are often aly bored. So, to offer some element of surprise, retailers are now working directly with labels to produce one-off capsules and collaborations that sit outside the main seasonal calendar and are unseen anywhere until they arrive in store.行之有效的时装卖点就是突出其唯一性。一般说来,大店铺吸引买家的招数,就是强调其获得的是旗下设计师打造的特定颜色与外形的限量版时装。诸位浏览一下Net-A-Porter与波道夫古德曼(Bergdorf Goodman)的网店,就会发现数不胜数自我标榜“限量版”的主流时装。但在当前营销环境下,推出新奇款式可以说越来越难。时装上市前几个月就已在T型台上亮相,因此在实体店正式销售前好几个月,就早已在网络和时尚类杂志上“露脸”。待正式投放市场时,消费者往往已显“审美疲劳”。因此,为了达到某种出奇不意的效果,零售商们如今与品牌公司直接合作,推出一次性混搭系列与合作款式,这些时装并不参展各大时装秀,待实体店正式上架时才露出“庐山真面目”。In the past year, online and boutique retailer Matches Fashion has released more than 15 exclusive capsules, with brands ranging from established luxury groups such as Balenciaga and Nina Ricci, to cult young labels Mary Katrantzou and Marques’Almeida. “Exclusive collaborations are a powerful way for us to offer our customers a sense of discovery — either digitally or physically,” says Matches buying director Natalie Kingham. “We’ve found it particularly effective to work with brands on delivering collections at points in the season that aren’t always catered for, such as high summer exclusives in May and June, when the customer is looking for newness.” In today’s cluttered fashion landscape, finding something no one else has is the true luxury, and it’s this exclusivity that savvy shoppers seek.过去一年中,Matches Fashion网店与精品店推出了超过15款的限量版混搭装,从巴黎世家(Balenciaga)及莲娜丽姿(Nina Ricci)等知名品牌到玛丽愠祓灲婑(Mary Katrantzou)及麦奎斯奥美达(Marques’Almeida)等年轻人青睐的品牌,应有尽有。“无论是在网店还是实体店,稀缺版合推款式是满足消费者淘宝心态的有效方式。”Matches采购部负责人娜塔莉金厄姆(Natalie Kingham)说,“我们发现:与各时尚品牌在时装季空档期(如每年五、六月)推出盛夏限量版混搭款式后,市场效果非常好,因为此时消费者正到处淘寻新奇款式。”在如今群雄逐鹿的时装界,淘到限量版时装才算真正奢侈大气,而它们正是精明消费者苦苦追寻的爱物。Dover Street Market, Comme des Gar’ Rei Kawakubo’s concept store (which has spaces in London, Tokyo, New York and online) has always made exclusivity its point of difference, working closely with designers on pop-up installations, window displays and one-off products from day one. Today, its model is the norm but back when it opened in 2004, with stock that included an exclusive furniture collaboration with Hedi Slimane and a Lanvin collection made entirely in white, the practice was revolutionary. “We are simply interested in creating exclusive products whenever we can,” says Adrian Joffe, president of Comme des Gar International. “It could be a celebration, a collector’s item, or a capsule. The idea is to share the spirit of the store and work closely with our brands.”Comme des Gar创办人川久保玲(Rei Kawakubo)打造了时尚概念店“丹佛街集市”(Dover Street Market),一直推限量版时装作为自己的制胜法宝,它从一开始就与设计师们紧密协作,推出快闪版、橱窗展示版以及一次性款式时装。“丹佛街集市”如今在伦敦、东京、纽约以及网上都开设了门店。该模式如今大行其道,但2004年开业伊始,它实属开天辟地之举,当时上架的货品还有与艾迪斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)合作推出的限量版家具以及与朗万(Lanvin)合推的纯白色时装。“我们就是对推出限量款式乐此不疲,”Comme des Gar International总裁阿德里安约菲(Adrian Joffe)说。“合推款式既可能是周年庆版、藏家青睐款式,也可能是混搭系列款。我们的意图就是与拥趸共享门店之时尚精髓以及与各大时尚品牌紧密合作。”This notion of a collector’s item is central to the trend. All retailers want to make shoppers feel like their products have been created just for them. And retailers have realised that exclusivity can come from pushing prices. That’s the thinking behind Harrods’ current “Made with Love” campaign, a two-month promotion offering limited-edition products and bespoke personalised services. Harrods works with designers on special garments or one-off pieces which can be sold at higher price points than those brands usually occupy.推藏家青睐款式对于流行时尚极其重要。所有零售商都希望买家觉得所推时装只为其精心打造,而且所有零售商都认识到高价位可造就稀缺性。这正是哈罗德百货当前推出Made with Love活动的理念所在。这场历时2个月的促销活动推出了大量限量版时装以及提供个人定制版务。哈罗德百货与设计师合推专款式或一次性时装,其售价往往高于同类品牌的正常价位。London designer Alice Temperley was drawn to the project because of its focus on higher prices — for her pieces, around 10,000 (most stores want dresses within the 800 to 1,000 range). “We designed a small collection featuring three exclusive eveningwear designs for Harrods,” she says. “The high price point meant they were lovely to work on and not something that fitted in our y-to-wear plan.”伦敦设计师艾丽丝映伯丽(Alice Temperley)喜欢上了这种合作模式,原因是它专注于高价位————就她设计的款式而言,价位约为1万英镑(多数时尚门店理想的价位是800-1000英镑)。“我们专为哈罗德百货设计了由三套稀缺款晚装组成的小系列。”她说,“高售价意味着设计师在设计时身心愉悦,但它们并不包括在正常的成衣设计计划中。”Fellow London store Selfridges has made a niche of quirky themes and often invites designers to produce special items based around topics: “Agender”, for example, launched in March as a celebration of gender-neutral dressing, sparked much coverage in the fashion press — exactly as planned.哈罗德的同城竞争对手塞尔福里奇百货店(Selfridges)则专门细分出了以怪异款式为主题的专柜,并且时常邀请设计师就特定主题设计专款:比方说,今年三月推出了颂扬男女无差别装的“Agender(无性别)计划”,曾引发时尚媒体大肆报道,完全符合原先预期。For exclusive lines, such as high-street retailers’ collaboration with high-fashion labels, sales alone are not the end game: press attention and social media awareness are other important components. And the attention generated elevates the rest of their stock. Topshop has collaborated with designers from JW Anderson to Marques’Almeida, and Kendall and Kylie Jenner. “These exclusive collections allow us to capture the energy and aesthetic of the brands we are partnering with,” explains Mary Homer, managing director of Topshop.大型零售店与高端品牌合推限量版,销售并非最终目的:平面媒体关注度与社交媒体认可度也是重要参考因素。更高关注度会进一步促进店铺其它产品的销售。Topshop与设计师(从J德森(JW Anderson)到麦奎斯奥美达(Marques’Almeida))及名模肯达尔(Kendall Jenner)与凯丽礠娜(Kylie Jenner)进行了全面合作。“限量版可以让我们乘势获得合作品牌的市场影响力以及借鉴其时尚风格。”Topshop总经理玛丽霍默(Mary Homer)如是解释道。When Matches Fashion teamed up with Mary Katrantzou this spring to launch a 26-piece set of handbags (575 each) each marked with a letter of the alphabet, it made sure to utilise her social media presence — she has 264,000 followers on Instagram alone. Alongside the release, it hosted six events across London, LA and Dallas and encouraged attendees to share their “initial” online. The project reached 40m unique users and most of the alphabet had to be reordered within 24 hours.Matches Fashion与玛丽愠祓灲婑今春合作推出了26种款式构成的手袋系列(每件标价575英镑,每款标识各对应字母表中的一个字母),这无疑利用了玛丽愠祓灲婑葩社交媒体影响力————她光在Instagram上的粉丝数就达26.4万。除发布会外,Matches Fashion还在伦敦、洛杉矶以及达拉斯举办了六场造势活动,鼓励参与者分享首次网购该系列手袋的心得体会。这项活动吸引了4000万用户参与,不到24个小时,大多数字母对应的手袋不得不再次订货。But while the stores benefit, keeping up with the demand for such products can be tough on designers, especially when it comes to production. Temperley admits, “When you aly work on about 500 items a year it’s a lot of extra work, and when working with small units you have to bend suppliers’ arms.”但是,尽管各大门店从中大获其利,但时刻满足拥趸对此类产品的需求对于设计师来说是个挑战,尤以生产环节为甚。坦伯丽坦承:“每年推出大约500种款式时,我们就得大量加班加点;因此与小型生产商合作时,就得想方设法讨好对方。”Often it’s young designers who get hit the hardest. Big retailers will sometimes demand a one-off piece, such as an exclusive T-shirt, but fail to place an order on the designer’s mainline collection, thus capitalising on the buzz of the brand without truly investing.通常说来,年轻设计师承受的压力最大。大型零售商有时需要设计师设计一次性款式(如某款限量版T恤),但并不订购其主流系列,从而在不费真金白银的情况下利用了该品牌的市场影响力。“Some retailers would only take on a collection if they could have a separate piece of their own,” says Dominic Jones, who struggled with retailers’ demands when starting his high-fashion jewellery line in 2009. “I also experienced a relentless pressure to sign sale-or-return deals or offer ‘trade discounts’. They knew, as a young designer, it was good for me to sell with them.”“有些零售商接纳设计师主流时装的前提条件是先给其另外设计专款。”英国设计师多米尼克琼斯(Dominic Jones)说。2009年,他着手设计自己的高端首饰系列时,不得不设法满足零售商的要求。“我因与零售商签下剩货保退协议以及给予批发价优惠而承受了巨大压力。零售商清楚:借助自己的销售渠道大大利于年轻设计师。”“Typically, at Matches, the cost structure works in the same way as buying the designers’ mainline collection,” says Kingham — in other words, designers cover the production charges while the retailer pays wholesale price for the item and profits from the price hike at retail. Dover Street’s arrangement is less fixed. “It’s a case-by-case situation. We often assist with costs,” says Adrian Joffe.“在Matches网店,通常情况下,合作款的成本运作模式与购买该设计师的主流产品一模一样。”金厄姆说————换言之,设计师负担生产费用,而零售商以批发价进货,其利润来自零售环节的溢价。伦敦多佛街(Dover Street)的门店与设计师之间签订浮动性协议。“协议视具体情况而定,我们通常在费用上给予一定让利。”阿德里安约菲说。Retailers are adamant that the benefits of agreeing to do exclusives outweigh the disadvantages for designers. For Kingham, successful partnerships work when the designer is willing to listen and shape a product around shoppers’ needs: “Something that combines the DNA of the brand with our knowledge of our customer. We have our in-house content, communication and event team who can support the global outreach of the project,” she adds.零售商坚持认为:推限量版时装对于设计师来说利大于弊。在金厄姆看来,当设计师愿意倾听、并根据消费者需求设计时,一种成功的合作关系就建立了:“合推的时装要兼顾品牌时尚精髓与客户特殊需求。我们公司有负责设计内容、沟通以及宣传的团队,能帮助全球市场的推广。”她又补充道。Likewise, Joffe insists communication is key. Just as the market is aly saturated with product, too many exclusives can be time-consuming and costly. There’s no point collaborating for the sake of it, or tapping a designer for a range without having a relationship. Is there a trick? “Good, desirable product, not random gratuitous co-branding,” he says. You heard it here, exclusively.约菲也强调良好的沟通是成功的关键。由于市场已呈饱和状态,推出过多限量版时装既费工又费钱。只是为合作而合作、或是让并无合作关系的设计师来打造限量版毫无意义。那么合作款是个骗局呢?“必须得推出称心如意的时装,而不是心血来潮、无由头的合作品牌。”他说。诸位听明白了吗?得是限量版。Case study: Matches x Y-3个案研究:Matches与Y-3Matches’ collaboration with Adidas’s Y-3 on a capsule range featuring ink drawings by designer Yohji Yamamoto went on sale in Paris in June during men’s fashion week.Matches与阿迪达斯(Adidas) Y-3品牌合作推出了混搭系列,上面画有设计师山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)创作的墨水画,该系列在今年六月的巴黎男装周期间公开发售。“Our menswear business has doubled in the past year and there’s an ever-increasing appetite for product,” says Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matches, who says men now account for 30 per cent of its business. “Exclusives are often a way of developing a relationship with a brand that we’re seeing a great reaction to. Our business with Y-3 has tripled over the past two years. Pieces were selling out within 24 hours and we frequently have waiting lists for the sneakers. This felt very relevant for us — especially as Yohji was so directly involved.”“过去一年,我们的男装销售额翻了一倍,而且需求与日俱增。”Matches男装部主管达明保罗(Damien Paul)说。他说如今男装销售额占到了公司总销售额的30%。“推限量版时装是与热门品牌建立良好关系的途径。过去两年里,我们与Y-3合推的男装销售额翻了3倍。产品上架不到24小时,就已售完。而且我们的运动鞋订单源源不断,我们感觉意义非凡——尤其是山本耀司亲自参与设计。”Case study: Net-a-Porter x Chanel个案研究2:Net-a-Porter与香奈儿(Chanel )的合作Chanel made its e-commerce debut in April with an exclusive jewellery line for Net-a-Porter. The “Coco Crush” range featured just six designs — a cuff and five rings — priced between 1,400 and 13,500. In return for the debut, Net-a-Porter’s tech-team created a digital pop-up shop that mimicked the aesthetic of a Chanel boutique.今年4月,香奈儿首次试水电商,在Net-a-Porter上销售其限量版珠宝系列“Coco Crush”。该系列只推出了6款首饰——一款手镯与五款戒指,定价介于1400英镑-1.35万英镑之间。作为回报,Net-a-Porter的技术团队专门在网上创建了一家模仿香奈儿精品店时尚风格的快闪店(pop-up shop)。The benefits? Chanel got to experiment with e-commerce and capture some online data, while Net-a-Porter landed the coup of being Chanel’s first etailer — and lots of press. “We felt the exclusive married Net’s pioneering technology within the luxury retail space, along with Chanel’s chic and timeless style,” says jewellery buyer Sophie Quy. “It was a dream partnership and, needless to say, our customers absolutely loved it.”好处呢?香奈儿开始试水电商并获取相关网购数据,而Net-a-Porter也有幸成为香奈儿的首家电子零售代理商并且获得媒体的广泛关注。“我们认为:香奈儿的限量版首饰、连同香奈儿的新潮和隽永时尚风格与Net-a-Porter的前沿科技在奢侈品零售环节成功实现了联姻。”高档珠宝买手索菲盖伊(Sophie Quy)说。“两者的合作可谓珠联璧合,不用说,我们的客户为此也欣喜若狂。”Case study: Dover Street Market个案研究3:“丹佛街集市”Dover Street Market (DSM) proved itself the original master of the innovative exclusive by getting a “who’s who” of fashion to produce one-off items to celebrate the store’s 10th anniversary last year. Among the items were a Nike tennis sneaker featuring the DSM logo and a Giambattista Valli limited-edition bag.去年,“丹佛街集市”(DSM)用推出一次性时装来庆祝自己的10周年店庆,从而有力明了自己就是限量版时装的原创者。在推出的诸多协作款中,就包括了带有“丹佛街集市”标识的一款耐克网球鞋以及一款詹巴蒂斯塔瓦莉(Giambattista Valli)的限量版手包。Simone Rocha, who offered two silver brogue designs, says it was her opportunity to thank the retailer for its continued support. “It was a special milestone for them and for me because I’m a part of the store. It was like my birthday present to them,” she says. Being smart with quantities allowed her to budget for such an undertaking. “We have only ever done a small run of special limited editions, so our team works with our factories to see if we can push it through with our regular schedule.”推出两款银灰色布洛克鞋的西蒙娜圠蹿(Simone Rocha)说自己得借此机会感谢零售商一如既往的持。“对于双方都是里程碑式的纪念意义,因为我如今俨然成了零售店的共同体。这就好比是自己送给对方的店庆礼物。”她说。正是科学统筹生产数量,自己才能合理安排、顺利交工。“我们只是推了几个限量版,所以我们的设计团队与厂家协商,看看是否能在正常生产周期中赶完这批活。” /201510/402736。

There are few literary mediums that Julian Fellowes has not dabbled in.朱利安·费罗斯(Julian Fellowes)未曾涉足的文学领域已经不多了。Mr. Fellowes, the creator of the hit historical British melodrama “Downton Abbey,” has worked on screenplays, stage plays, novels and a children’s book. He wrote the book for “School of Rock,” a raucous new Broadway musical by Andrew Lloyd Webber adapted from the 2003 Richard Linklater movie, and he is working on his new N series “The Gilded Age,” set in New York in the late 19th century.费罗斯是英国热门的通俗历史剧《唐顿庄园》(Downton Abbey)的编剧,他写过电视剧本、舞台剧本、小说和一本童书。他还为《摇滚校园》(School of Rock)写了一本书,这部喧嚣的新百老汇音乐剧是安德鲁·劳埃德·韦伯(Andrew Lloyd Webber)根据理查德·林特莱克(Richard Linklater)2003年的同名电影改编的。目前费罗斯正在忙于创作N新剧《流金岁月》(The Gilded Age),该剧背景发生在19世纪末的纽约。Now, for his next project, “Belgravia,” Mr. Fellowes is marrying an old narrative form — the serialized novel, in the tradition of Charles Dickens’s “The Pickwick Papers” — with the latest digital delivery system: an app.而在他的下一个项目《贝尔格莱维亚》(Belgravia)中,费罗斯采用了古老的叙事形式——查尔斯·狄更斯(Charles Dickens)创作《匹克威克先生外传》(The Pickwick Papers)时延续下来的连载小说传统;而且采用了全新的数字传播方式——手机应用。“Belgravia” takes place in London in the 1840s and opens decades earlier during the Battle of Waterloo. It explores the class divisions between the established aristocracy and newly wealthy families who made their fortunes through the Industrial Revolution. But instead of having the sweeping narrative arc of a novel, it will unfold more like a new network TV series, in 10 weekly digital installments that will arrive automatically on ers’ phones, tablets or computers. The chapters cost .99 each, and .99 all together. The app will also incorporate an audio version, music, , character portraits, family trees, images of period fashion and maps of Belgravia.《贝尔格莱维亚》发生在19世纪40年代的伦敦,故事开始于几十年前的滑铁卢战役。它探索旧有贵族阶层与工业革命期间发家的新富家族之间的的阶级差异。但是它并没有给出小说完整的叙事弧,而是像一部新电视剧一样徐徐展开。小说将做10个星期的网络连载,届时电子下载会自动出现在读者的手机、平板设备或电脑上。每一章价格是1.99美元,共计13.99美元。这个手机应用还将结合语音版、音乐、视频、人物画像、家族树、时代风情画和贝尔格莱维亚地图。“To marry the traditions of the Victorian novel to modern technology, allowing the er, or listener, an involvement with the characters and the background of the story and the world in which it takes place, that would not have been possible until now, and yet to preserve within that the strongest traditions of storytelling, seems to me a marvelous goal and a real adventure,” Mr. Fellowes said in a statement released through Grand Central Publishing, which will publish the novel in hardcover in July.“把维多利亚时代小说传统和现代科技结合起来,让读者或听众可以参与到人物和故事背景之中,乃至小说里的世界当中,这种事只有到了如今才能实现。而对于我来说,保持最有力量的讲故事传统是最宏伟的目标,也是真正的冒险,”费罗斯先生在通过Grand Central出版社发表的声明中说,该出版社将于7月出版这本小说的精装本。With “Downton Abbey,” an addictive series about an upper-class British family and its household servants, Mr. Fellowes has aly proven himself adept at fashioning soap opera-worthy cliffhangers. On Sunday, PBS’s “Masterpiece” will begin airing the show’s sixth and final season. The show drew an average of more than 13 million viewers in its fourth season, and became the top rated PBS drama of all time.《唐顿庄园》是一部会让人上瘾的电视剧,讲述一个英国上层家庭及其佣仆们的故事,通过这部剧,费罗斯先生已经明自己擅长创作扣人心弦的、适合肥皂剧形式的连载剧集。星期日,PBS台的“杰作”(Masterpiece)栏目将播放《唐顿庄园》的第六季,也就是最后一季。这部剧的第四季平均吸引了1300多万名观众,成了PBS台有史以来收视率最高的剧集。The first chapter of “Belgravia” will arrive in April, shortly after the last season of “Downton Abbey” concludes. The app will be available through a website and individual chapters can be purchased for download through major e-book retailers like Amazon.com and Barnes amp; Noble’s website.《贝尔格莱维亚》的第一章将在4月推出,也就是《唐顿庄园》最后一季完结后不久。这个手机应用将通过一个网站推出,每一章节都可以通过Amazon.com和Barnes amp; Boble等主要的图书零售商网站购买下载。App-based novels remain a relatively new and unproven format, but they could begin to catch on as some prominent authors experiment with the interactive possibilities of apps.通过手机应用推出的小说是相对新鲜而且未经检验的形式,但是随着一些著名作家开始试着运用可供互动的手机应用,这种做法可以变得流行起来。Last year, the British novelist Iain Pears released his new book “Arcadia” as an app that allowed ers to toggle among 10 different story lines, and Eli Horowitz published his comic dystopian novel “The Pickle Index” as a hardcover, paperback and interactive app simultaneously. This spring, the best-selling novelist Wally Lamb will publish a new novel, “I’ll Take You There,” exclusively as an app via the digital publishing company Metabook.去年,英国小说家伊恩·皮尔斯(Iain Pears)以手机应用的形式发表了自己的新书《阿卡迪亚》(Arcadia),读者可以在10个不同故事线之间切换,伊利·霍洛维茨(Eli Horowitz)同时以精装书、平装书和互动手机应用形式出版了自己的滑稽反乌托邦小说《泡菜目录》(The Pickle Index)。今年春天,畅销小说作家瓦利·兰姆(Wally Lamb)将出版新小说《我会带你去那儿》(I’ll Take You There),通过数字出版公司Metabook,只以手机应用形式发行。With its episodic delivery schedule, “Belgravia” will test whether “appointment ing” can become as habit-forming as a recurring TV show or serialized podcast. Jamie Raab, the president and publisher of Grand Central Publishing, said the concept behind “Belgravia” appealed to her because of Mr. Fellowes’s television background and his knack for keeping audiences engaged in a story over months and even years.《贝尔格莱维亚》有着松散的发行计划,它将检测“预订阅读”是否能够同电视连续剧与系列podcast广播一样,培养人们的习惯。Grand Central出版社的总裁兼出版人杰米·拉布(Jamie Raab)说,她对《贝尔格莱维亚》的概念感兴趣,是因为费罗斯先生的电视背景,以及他可以让观众长达几个月乃至几年都沉浸在一个故事之中的能力。“I’ve always been intrigued by the idea of publishing a novel in short episodic bites,” she said. “He gets how to keep the story paced so that you’re caught up in the current episode, then you’re left with a cliffhanger.”“我一直对以短篇连载形式出版一本小说感兴趣,”她说。“他明白该怎样保持故事的节奏,让你沉浸在当下的这一集里,然后还能保持悬念。”The thematic overlap with “Downton Abbey,” and the timing of the release, as “Downton Abbey” comes to an end, could help attract fans of the show who are experiencing withdrawal, she said.本书与《唐顿庄园》主题上有所交叉,而且出版的时间正赶在《唐顿庄园》播出结束之后,可以吸引怅然若失的剧迷来看这本书,她说。“ ‘Belgravia’ deals with the different classes in England, and I think that’s what people like so much about ‘Downton Abbey’ and before that, ‘Upstairs Downstairs,’ ” she said, referencing a show that ran in the 1970s. “There’s a lot of drama and melodrama.”“《贝尔格莱维亚》涵盖了英国的不同阶层,我觉得这也是为什么人们如此喜爱《唐顿庄园》,以及之前的《楼上楼下》(Upstairs Downstairs),”她说。《楼上楼下》是20世纪70年代的一部剧集。“书中有很多有戏剧性的、伤感的情节。” /201601/422691。