时间:2020年02月27日 09:27:51

More fashion musical chairs! The Hermès women’s wear designer Christophe Lemaire is leaving “to dedicate myself fully” to his own line. The show in October will be his last.时装界的抢椅子游戏又有了新空位!爱马仕(Hermès)的女装设计师克里斯托弗·勒梅尔(Christophe Lemaire)将辞职,“专注于”自己的装品牌。10月份的时装秀将是他在爱马仕的最后一场时装秀。Anyway, the news comes at an interesting time: Hermès just released its results for the first half of 2014, and y-to-wear and accessories were up 16 percent — more than leather goods or silks (granted, it was starting at a lower level, but still). That raises the question: Will the fashion house continue to invest in women’s wear, or pull back?不管怎样,这条消息是在一个有趣的时刻公布的:爱马仕刚公布了它2014年上半年的业绩,成衣和配饰增长了16%——高于皮具或丝绸的增长(当然,成衣和配饰的起点较低,但仍然不可小觑)。这引发了一个问题:这家时装公司会继续在女装上投资还是收缩战线?This will be the first real test of Axel Dumas, the chief executive who took the reins this year, and his strategic plans for the brand.这将是对今年上任的首席执行官阿克塞尔·杜马(Axel Dumas)以及他的品牌战略的第一个真正考验。Although Hermès is still widely known as a leather goods and silks brand, Mr. Lemaire’s recent shows had been well received, and he was quietly carving out a convincing style for the luxury name, focused on extraordinary materials and style over fashion.虽然爱马仕仍被普遍认为是一个皮具和丝绸品牌,但是勒梅尔最近的时装秀都获得了好评,他正在悄悄地为这个奢侈品牌开创令人信的风格,把重点放在卓越的面料和时尚特色上。It came as a sort of antidote to the much more showy work of Jean Paul Gaultier, who had been hired by the former chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas. Despite being at the brand for seven years, from 2003 to 2010, Mr. Gaultier never seemed entirely comfortable with Hermès’s understated approach as defined by its first catwalk designer, Martin Margiela (1997-2003), who was famous for setting his shows to the murmured conversation of women.这似乎与前任首席执行官让-路易斯·杜马(Jean-Louis Dumas)雇佣的让·保罗·高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)正好相反,高缇耶的作品要艳丽得多。尽管高缇耶从2003年至2010年为该品牌务了七年,但他似乎一直不能完全适应爱马仕的第一位时装设计师马丁·马吉拉(Martin Margiela, 1997-2003)确立的低调风格。马吉拉以在女人们的低语声中展示装而闻名。Though the “leaving to concentrate on his own brand” line can be interpreted in many ways — some good, some less so — it seems to be genuine in this case. Hermès, however, isn’t saying much about what happens next.虽然“专注于自己的品牌”这样的说辞可以有很多解释——有的很好,有的不那么好——但是这一次似乎是真的。不过,爱马仕没有对接下来会发生什么解释太多。To be specific, Mr. Dumas said: “I am very grateful to Christophe for the passion with which he has addressed and enriched the expression of our house in women’s y-to-wear. Under his artistic direction the me#769;tier has renewed its aesthetic and produced very satisfactory financial results. I wish him the greatest success with his own label which is so close to his heart.”杜马是这么说的:“克里斯托弗用丰富了我们公司对女装成衣的表达,对此我十分感激。在他的艺术指导下,我们的女装审美焕然一新,取得了非常令人满意的经济效益。我祝愿他自己的品牌取得巨大成功,那个品牌非常贴近他的心。”Nice — and bland.说得挺好——但也很平淡。So will Mr. Dumas follow his late uncle’s strategy and go for a big name, who will bring buzz and global acclaim (and potentially higher costs) to the Hermès shows? Will he take a step back, and go for someone less famous, who may be humbler in the face of the house’s heritage? Will he pull back from women’s wear entirely?杜马会追随他已故的叔叔的策略,找一位著名设计师吗?这将给爱马仕的时装秀带来喧闹和全球称赞(也将增加公司成本)。抑或他会后退一步,找一个不那么出名的设计师,这位设计师在面对该公司的传统时会更谦逊一点?他会完全撤出女装市场吗?And will LVMH Mo#235;t Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which owns 23 percent of the shares but thus far has been a seemingly silent investor, have any say in the matter?掌握该公司23%的股份的路威酩轩(LVMH Mo#235;t)集团到目前为止似乎是个默默无闻的投资者,它会干涉这件事吗?All possibilities are on the table. It’s always a big deal when a major house changes designers, but I’d say this is a particularly big one. Not just because Hermès is such a feted name, but because what it does next — demonstrate a belief in the power of the Fashion Show (yes, capital letters intended) as a marketing tool or not — could influence the whole industry.各种可能性都存在。大型时装公司更换设计师永远是件大事,但我得说这一次尤为重要。不仅因为爱马仕是个备受赞誉的品牌,而且因为它的下一步行动能表明该公司是否认为时装秀(是的,我故意用了大写)是一种有力的市场营销工具,这个态度会影响整个时装业。No pressure there, then. Young designers, start your lobbying.所以别有压力。年轻设计师们,开始游说吧。 /201407/314808

Recently, Cheng Li had to block another friend on his WeChat account who constantly shared links to various health tips.近日,程力(音译)不得不屏蔽了一位总是不停分享保健贴士的微信好友。“At first, they looked useful, but now they’re just cliched,” said Cheng, 22, a Beijing-based reporter. In fact, Cheng is not the only one who has to endure such bombardments on social media platforms, from intimate couple selfies, photos of meals, to bag sales and if-you-don’t-share-this-bad-things-will-happen links.“起初,这些信息看起来很有用,但现在看来都只是些老生常谈罢了。”这位来自北京的22岁记者说道。实际上,并非只有程力一人忍受着社交媒体上的这种“狂轰滥炸”:从晒情侣肉麻自拍,到晒各种美食照,再到打折包包以及各种“不转发就会有厄运降临”的帖子。Let’s just say that while sharing is indeed a virtue, oversharing, especially on social media platforms, can not only sour friendships but also hurt career prospects. Experts advise people to maintain a good balance between their private life and their professional life, between sharing and showing off, and between goodwill and annoyances. But it’s a tricky business.虽说分享的确是种美德,但过度分享,尤其是在社交媒体上过度分享,不仅会伤害友情更是会殃及事业前途。专家建议,人们需要在私生活与职场生活、分享与炫耀、好心与惹人厌之间寻求一种良性平衡。而这是个麻烦事儿。Identification and false reality认同与伪造真实Feng Shanshan, 20, an economics major at the University of International Business and Economics, feels frustrated when she checks her WeChat only to see photos from her friends eating in fancy restaurants or enjoying exotic trips and exciting events. “It feels like I’m a failure with hardly any highlights in my life,” said Feng.20岁的冯珊珊(音译)是对外经济贸易大学经济学专业的一名学生。她最近很郁闷,因为一打开微信,满目都是好友晒高级餐厅、出国旅行、参加各种精活动的信息。她说:“感觉上我就是一个生活毫无精之处的失败者。”Zhang Yijun, a Shanghai-based psychologist, says this is a common reaction. But the truth is that the information shared online is designed to construct a certain illusion of reality.来自上海的心理学家张怡筠说,这是一种常见的反应。而事实上,网上分享的信息是人们精心设计出的对现实的粉饰。“Deep down, sharing anything is showing off,” said Zhang. “But when we see the best side of everyone’s life in such a fragmented way, we tend to connect the pieces and think of them as reality, which can cause an anxiety of missing out or being left out.”“实际上,任何分享行为都是一种炫耀,”张怡筠表示。“但当我们以一种碎片化的方式来看每个人生活中最好的一面时,我们往往会将这些片段连接起来并认为这就是真实的现实,从而产生一种被忽视或者被隔离的焦虑感。”Friendship and career at stake危及友情和事业Chen Canrui, a psychologist at South China Normal University, says oversharing online undermines effective communication in real life.华南师范大学心理学专家陈灿锐表示,网络“分享控”行为正在破坏现实生活中实际的沟通。“Having such easy access to so many people makes communication really superficial,” said Chen. “In the end, the lack of deep communication hurts strong social connections, namely friends, more than weak connections.”“如此轻而易举地接触到这么多的人,使得沟通交流变得流于表面,”陈灿锐说道。“最终,相对于微弱的社会关系,深度沟通的缺乏更容易令友谊这种强大的社会关系受伤。”Not only friendships are at stake in the era of oversharing, but career prospects could also be at risk if a good balance between private life and professional life is not maintained.在一个“分享控”的时代,不仅人与人之间的友情面临考验,如果你不能平衡好个人生活与职场生活间的关系,你的职业生涯也很可能岌岌可危。“Companies don’t care if you’re oversharing photos of a Habitat for Humanity house you helped build,” Vinda Rao Souza, marketing manager at Bullhorn, a US recruitment software company, told Glassdoor, a US-based job recruitment website. “But they will care if you’re sharing your innermost thoughts on political matters or if you throw around racial epithets.”招聘软件开发商Bullhorn的市场经理Vinda Rao Souza在接受美国招聘网站Glassdoor采访时称:“如果你只是一味地上传自己参与‘仁爱之家’建房计划的照片,想必没有公司会在意这回事。而他们真正看重的是你就政治热点发表的内心看法,或者看你是否随意使用着涉嫌种族歧视的用语。”“The biggest thing is to make sure you are aware of the privacy settings and use them,” Pamela Skillings, co-founder of US-based job coaching firm Skillful Communications, told Glassdoor. “You don’t have to give up social media, but you have to understand that what’s available publicly can hurt the professional side of your life.”美国职业咨询公司Skillful Communications的联合创始人帕梅拉?斯基林告诉Glassdoor网站:“关键是要弄清所有隐私设置,并加以利用。尽管你无需逃离社交媒体,但你必须要弄清哪些公开可见的内容会危害到你的职业生涯。”Are you an oversharer?你是“分享控”吗?With the Fear of Missing Out (FOMO) compelling us to update our sharing apps every 15 minutes, we easily become culprits of oversharing annoying contents, ranging from showing off to chicken soup for the soul. Over the weekend, 21st Century conducted a survey through its official WeChat account that received more than 400 responses from ers, most of whom are enrolled students in college and senior middle school. Shopping advertisements ranked top of the most annoying shared contents on social media.人们由于“社交控情结”(译者注:忙于眼前事的时候,总是害怕会错过更有趣或者更好的人和事),每隔15分钟便会更新自己的社交网络;这样一来,我们很容易沦为分享无聊内容的“刷屏怪”,从单纯的炫耀到心灵鸡汤不一而足。上周末,《21世纪英文报》在其官方微信上进行了一项用户调查活动,共搜集到400多位热心读者的反馈,这些读者大都是在校大学生及高中生。而购物小广告被票选为“社交媒体最惹人厌的行为”。The most annoying shared contents on social media:“社交媒体最惹人厌行为排行榜”Shopping advertisements: 28%购物小广告:28%Superstition and if-you-don’t-share-this-bad-things-will-happen links: 24%迷信帖以及“不转发就会遭厄运”帖:24%Complaints: 9%“抱怨不停”型:9%Intimate pictures of couples: 8%秀恩爱:8%Duplicated chicken soup for the soul: 6%转发心灵鸡汤:6%Photoshopped selfies: 6%自拍加PS:6%Endless food and meals: 5%永远是吃吃喝喝:5%Showing off wealth: 5%炫富:5%Health tips: 5%保健贴士:5%Overly emotional comments on celebrities: 2%过于多愁善感的名人语录:2%Nationalistic news and comments: 1%国家新闻点评:1% /201403/278434

Are you aware of a variety of interesting facts and details about a kiss? Is kissing good or bad for you? Can you slim down by kissing too much? Below are some of the most curious things about kissing.你知不知道关于接吻还有很多有趣的事情和细节?接吻对你是好还是不好?经常接吻能减肥么?下面这些就是与接吻有关的有趣事情。1. Sensitivity of the lips is 200 times higher than that of the fingers。嘴唇的敏感度是手指的200倍。2. Every other person on the planet has his first amorous kiss before reaching the age of 14.这个地球上,每两个人中就有一个人在14岁之前有了初吻。3. On the average, a person spends 20,160 minutes (two weeks) of his life on kissing。平均来说,人一生中花在接吻上的时间是20160分钟,大约是两周。4. According to U.S. statistics, an American woman would kiss an average of 80 men before she gets married。根据美国的统计数字,美国女性在结婚之前平均会亲吻80个男人。5. A kiss that lasts one minute can relieve your body of 26 calories。接吻一分钟,可以消耗26卡路里的热量。6. A quick romantic kiss will burn about 2-3 calories, whereas French kiss (an openmouthed kiss with tongue contact) will obliterate more than 5 calories。一个飞快的轻吻可以消耗2-3卡路里,而法式热吻(张开嘴的舌吻)则会消耗至少5卡路里的热量。7. As a rule, 66 percent of people keep their eyes closed while kissing. The rest take pleasure in watching the emotions run the gamut on the faces of their partners。作为一种习惯,66%的人在接吻时会闭上眼睛。另外一些人则喜欢观察他们的伴侣在接吻时脸上的表情变化。8. It is thought that men who kiss their wives goodbye before going to work live five years longer than those who just slam the door. Men of the latter category are said to be more prone to traffic accidents。据说那些在出门前跟妻子吻别的男人比那些直接关上门离开的男人要长寿5岁。后面那种男人更容易发生车祸。9. Kissing can help women relax and ease the effects of stress。接吻能帮助女性放松,并缓解压力造成的不适。10. An act of kissing puts 29 facial muscles in motion. In other words, kissing can be used as an effective exercise to prevent the development of wrinkles。接吻过程过程中要动用29块面部肌肉。换句话说,接吻是一种有效地预防皱纹的运动。11. Lovers swap saliva containing various substances e.g. fats, mineral salts, proteins while kissing. According to latest studies, the exchange of the above substances can give a boost to the production of antibodies which are made specifically to deal with the antigens associated with different diseases as they are encountered。情人接吻时交换的唾液含有多种成分,比如脂肪、矿物质、蛋白质等。根据最新的研究,这些物质的交换可以增强抗体的产生,这些抗体是在面对疾病的不同抗原所特别产生的。12. Smooching passionately for 90 seconds will elevate blood pressure and cause the pulse rate to go racing. It will also increase the level of hormones in the blood, thus reducing life by one minute。90秒钟热吻会升高血压、加速脉搏,还会增加血液中的荷尔蒙,由此会导致生命缩短一分钟。13. The bodies of those engaged in kissing produce a substance that is 200 times more powerful than morphine in terms of narcotic effect. That is why the kissing partners can experience feelings of euphoria and bliss in the process。接吻会产生一种物质,其麻醉的效果比吗啡强200倍。这也就是为什么在接吻的时候,人们会有种轻飘飘的幸福感。 /201310/262486

文章编辑: 百家媒体